Luigi Tuzi, Oresto’s grandfather, lived in Sora, a small village, near Cassino, in the province of Frosinone, south of Italy. Luigi had many children, one of whom was Angelo, Oresto’s father.

Angelo was born on 7 January 1889. When Angelo was about 12 years old, Luigi made a deal with another Italian, who was going to England, to take Angelo with him. Not long after, Angelo and a group of boys went to England to start a new life.

Unfortunately, this wasn’t to be the new life that Angelo hoped for. His guardian was very cruel. Angelo and the other boys were made to go out to earn their keep on the streets of London, busking with their accordions. On a few occasions, in the dead of Winter, while his fingers froze, Angelo would not manage to earn any money. His reward for his efforts was to be thrown in the corner, without food.

After a few years of this abuse, Angelo realised his future with this man in London was finished, and made the courageous decision to run away. Angelo ended up in Scotland at St Ninian’s near Stirling. Angelo met an Italian family in Denny, With Whom he settled.

This Italian family were much kinder, and allowed Angelo to earn his keep by working with them, making and selling ice-cream.

Angelo was very prudent, and having saved every penny he made he bought his own ice-cream cart. Angelo then went to St Ninian’s with his cart to begin his own business. Angelo had his own round, making and selling his own brand of ice-cream. Angelo Worked very hard at his business, and after much scri’mping and saving, went to Glasgow to build the business into a café. Although Angelo had worked very hard and saved a lot of money, he still couldn’t afford to buy a café, so instead, undeterred, he rented premises on London Road.

Angelo lived to work, and make a better life for himself, which began to pay off. The shop became a thriving business – he sold ice-cream and confectionery, he even sold chocolate by the square for a farthing.

Having ploughed all his profits back into the shop, it started to look beautiful — mirrors covering all the walls, he even had a marble step into the shop, into which he had engraved “Angelo Tuzi”. Angelo had acquired many things for the shop, and had the first electric piano in Glasgow, a Pianola. Angelo, quite rightly, was very proud of his successful shop, which he built from nothing.

At age 25, at the beginning of the 1914-18 war, Angelo was contacted by the Government, saying that he had to join the army. Since during the First World War Italy was in allegiance with Britain, Angelo had the choice to join the British or the Italian forces. Obviously, since Angelo was indeed Italian, he opted for the Italian Cavalry. Once this had been decided, Angelo had now to think of his business. He had worked incredibly hard to build it to the status it was at, so he didn’t want to close the doors on the business.

Angelo spoke to the local lemonade deliveryman, and asked him to look after the shop While he was in the Army. Angelo promised him that if he took care of the shop and ran it to the same standards, he would receive all the profits from the shop for that period. Naturally the deliveryman agreed. So Angelo went off to the Cavalry safe in the knowledge that his business was in good hands.

Angelo spent his time in the Cavalry undergoing rigorous horseback training, learning to be a master of the horse and performing feats such as sliding right round the horse under its belly then up and round the other side to the saddle again. Fortunately for Angelo, he never had to fight in the war – however he was now a highly skilled Cavalryman.

Angelo returned to Glasgow at the end of the war, and went back to his shop. As he arrived at the location of the café in London Road, the cafe’ was nowhere to be seen. Convinced he had gone to the wrong location he tried other streets, and looked closely at the other shops on the same road. He went back to the spot he was sure of, and noticed the marble step with his name on it. Angelo looked into the shop and there was nothing there, just an empty shell. Naturally very disturbed, Angelo went to the neighbouring shops to enquire into the fate of his business. He was told that it had been doing exceptionally well, as it always had. However, the man Angelo had left in charge had had a serious drinking problem, and had begun to sell off everything in the shop to feed his habit, until there was nothing left and the business was finished. So a now disillusioned Angelo headed back to his homeland, Italy — some 17 years after his father had sent him to Britain.

While in Italy he met Rosalinda Margiotta, who lived in the nearby suburb of Picinisco, Collaposte. At age 30 Angelo married Rosa on 3 August 1919. Rosa was born on 23 September 1897, and was only 22 when she married.

Angelo and Rosa returned to Scotland and settled in Edinburgh. They rented a shop at No. 9 The Pleasance, and lived directly above it at No. 3 The Pleasance.

Times were once again tough for Angelo and Rosa, so much so that for over two years they did not have fresh bread, as 2-day—old bread was much cheaper. However, once more, they put their life and soul into the shop, ploughing every last penny back into their confectionery business, and they began to branch out into the wholesale trade to try to build up the business.

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to the shop. The only flaw in Dino’s plan was that he was only wearing his vest, which covered him to his waist, and nothing else! Meanwhile, Oresto receiVed a leathering for the both of them, although it couldn’t have been too bad, as Angelo couldn’t contain himself from laughing.

One evening after school, Dino and Oresto were working in the shop. Oresto wasin the front shop and Dino was through the back. Dino shouted through to Oresto, asking him to do something for him. Without thinking Oresto shouted back “Say please” in a disgruntled manner. At that very moment a rather large, burly man had walked into the shop asking for a packet of Woodbine. As Oresto shouted “Say please” to Dino, the large man very meekly answered “Please”. Oresto was mortified, and handed over the cigarettes, while Dino fell about laughing in the back shop.

In 1932, since the business was doing so well, Angelo bought a Singer convertible — Registration SC 1703. It was his pride and joy. He kept this until 1937, when he sold it to buy an Austin in 1938. During this time Oresto had began to take lessons with Jean Christie to play the accordion.

Unfortunately these good times were not to last. 1939 saw the start of the Second World War — and this time Mussolini decided to join Germany against Britain. This made the entire Tuzi family (and every other Italian in Britain) enemy aliens overnight.

One night disaster struck, CID officers (who were known to the family, as they were regulars in the shop) burst into the Tuzi household in the middle of the night. Armed with guns they made for the bed Angelo and Rosa were asleep in. The whole household were awakened by the affray, except that is for Dino and Oresto, who slept through the Whole event even though Clina was screaming. The CID officers took Angelo away and imprisoned him at Donaldson’s School — the camp for enemy aliens.

Life within the camp was inhumane: the prisoners were given pails of water to drink out of and to use for the toilet etc. They were not allowed any contact with the outside world. One day Clina decided to visit her father, and went to the gates of Donaldson’s while he was allowed to have exercise on the front lawn with the other prisoners. Upon seeing Angelo, Clina raised her hand and began to wave. Angelo naturally made to return the gesture, however immediately a bayonet was put to his throat, as an order to stop. Shaken and annoyed though he was, he was thankfully unharmed.

Soon after that Rosa was taken away from the family too, as it was believed she could be a spy. Rosa was illiterate, and was only able to sign her name, and she only knew this because Angelo taught her, before that she signed her name with a cross. Despite these protestations, she was still taken away to Glasgow, and Dino was taken with her. In Glasgow Dino wandered around desperately looking for other Italians, and looking for a place to live. Fortunately he found a family who happened to be from the same area as Rosa, and they all stayed together in a two-roomed flat, with another family also.

Back in Edinburgh, Clina and Oresto had to run the shop. Oresto was exempted from school at age 13 and worked full time thereafter. The atmosphere in Edinburgh was still terrible for Clina and Oresto, with Clina narrowly escaping with her life at one point. One day as she was walking from their house to the shop (a matter of yards) she saw a large group of people across the road, Who all began jeering and shouting at her. On closer inspection, Clina realised that they all had rocks in their hands, and it was clearly their intention to stone her. Suddenly, out of the blue, a man stepped out in front of the crowd and said: “The first person to throw a stone at this girl, I will kill”. With that the crowd fled, as did Clina. Unfortunately, Clina never found out the identity of the man Who saved her life.

Angelo was then taken to the Isle of Man where he was interned. All of Angelo’s personal effects were taken away from him. One day he was offered a blunt razor to shave with, to which he replied: “I will not shave, until I have my own razor, and am standing in front of my own mirror in my own house.” And he stuck to his word.

When Dino returned to Edinburgh, he and Oresto decided to buy the shop from Angelo and Rosa. Angelo was not too impressed with this idea, as he had planned to give the shop to them. However Oresto and Dino insisted – and paid the shop up in instalments to their father. Dino had learned to play chess while he was in the army, and taught Oresto when he returned. Oresto picked up the game very quickly and it wasn’t long before Oresto was beating Dino!

Dino and Oresto were very shrewd businessmen and regularly went to Glasgow to buy stock for the shop. It was their routine to arrive at the warehouse in time for it to open and stock the car to the brim with snowballs among other confections. They would even take out the front seats, and sit on crates to drive home! Of course it must be remembered that this was in the time of rations, so it was the usual Tuzi wit and charm that allowed them away with that amount!

Back in the shop, Oresto and Dino would sell jars of sweets, for sixpence per quarter. They began to realise that there was a portion of sweets being wasted at the bottom of every jar, as they began to become sticky and unattractive. Inspired, they decided to empty out the contents of every nearly-finished jar, break up the pieces and display them in a barrel. They called this their “Special Mix” and sold this, previously useless mix, for a shilling per quarter!

It was soon after this that Oresto and Dino began to train for their cycle trip. They had decided to cycle to Italy from Edinburgh. As part of their training they would cycle as fast as they could from their home to the Forth Rail Bridge. To complete the course properly and to ensure that neither of them were cheating, they had to touch the bridge when they arrived and touch their house when they got back, before they could take stock of their time. They did this every day until 30 July 1950, when they set off for their marathon journey across many countries. Their journey lasted just over two months from beginning to end. Understandably, there were many experiences and stories that they experienced during the trip which they will never forget.

A while after this, Dino and Oresto saw another shop for sale, in West Richmond Street. They approached Angelo to get a loan to buy the new shop, since they had now paid off the last loan for the other shop. Naturally, Angelo agreed, and they went ahead with the new premises. While they were working on the new shop, Bruno, Clina’s husband, ran the Pleasance shop.
Throughout all this work, Oresto was still a keen accordion player, and was no longer receiving lessons. By this stage Oresto had taught himself a lot, and had progressed to having his own dance band. It got to the stage that every waking moment in Oresto’s life were taken up – when he wasn’t working in the shop he was out playing with the band, performing at functions all over town. Oresto was offered, around that time, to take up the music business full time and become professional. However Oresto turned down the offer as he felt that it may ruin the charm by making a living out of it – he enjoyed playing for the sake of it.

A year after Dino and Oresto had completed their cycle trip, they were walking down Lothian Road, past Alexanders Motorcycle shop and saw a Vespa in the Window. It was a genuine Italian Piaggio Vespa, not the British made Douglas Vespa, but both were presently unavailable in Scotland. Immediately Oresto and Dino fell in love with it, and decided they had to have it! They went into the shop and enquired how much it was, but were told it was not for sale. The next day they went back in to ask again, and again, they were told the same thing. Oresto and Dino, undeterred, continued to go into the shop every day until the owner couldn’t stand it any more and conceded to let them buy it!

Soon after word got out that Oresto and Dino had the Vespa, and Italian lads wanted a piece of the action! So Felice de Felice got one, then Lawrence Boni, Alfie F accenda and Mauro Cecchini among OthersThey all decided to form a club – The Edinburgh Italian Vespa Club (EIVC). They drew up constitutional rules and held fundraising events, including a dance at a hall in Morningside — Johnny Risi, Johnny Mocogni and Dino took photos at the dance, they ran back to Johnny Mocogni’s house in Salisbury, developed the films, printed them out and took the new photos back to the dance Which was still in full swing! There they sold the photos to increase the funds!

The EIVC became so popular and well known that another Vespa Club in Edinburgh — simply the Edinburgh Vespa Club was formed. However this club was bigger than the EIVC. Some time after, the EVC invited the EIVC to join their club — however, after a very brief discussion, the EIVC said no. Later they were approached again, and the EVC asked to join the EIVC! Again the decision was a resounding NO! The whole group were very proud of their club and continued together for a couple of years.

At one point, Oresto and Clina were going to Glasgow together in a car. Oresto was known for speeding at the time, and as fate would have it was caught. Instead of giving the policeman his own name, he told him his name was Dino Tuzi! So later, Dino was sent a notice of a penalty and had to surrender his licence to get endorsed! The brotherly love continues!

Back in the shop, Oresto and Dino had been trying to convince Angelo to take a holiday and visit his relatives in Picinisco. Angelo was not too keen on the idea – however Oresto and Dino insisted and kept talking about how nice it was, and recounted all their stories from their cycle trip. Angelo eventually agreed, and off he went, on his first ever holiday, which he thoroughly enjoyed.

From beginning to end, our holiday was very successful and we have thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. In all, we have covered about 3900 miles approx. Our impressions of everything were so new that we were always kept interested. In the north of France we saw many quaint little villages and FELT the cobbles. The centre and south of France is really lovely and we could have spent weeks touring there. It was then that we really tasted French food and cooking.

For scenery there was nothing to compare with the French Riviera. It was really a small millionaires’ paradise. The beaches were so many and so fine that although there were thousands of holidaymakers there, it never looked crowded. We went swimming almost every day, as the weather was so good we hardly ever saw any clouds in the sky.

When we crossed into Italy the coastline became much more uninteresting compared with the glamour of the French Riviera. We noticed in the north of Italy that nearly every town we passed through, displayed the communist signs on their buildings very prominently. As we travelled further south the scenery became very much nicer. The hostels in Italy were very good and, if anything, were better than the French ones.

We met hostellers from all parts of the world on our tour and it was grand to compare notes and views about different countries. We met a number of Americans – two girls at Crechis (south of Lyons) who were hitch-hiking the whole continent of Europe. We met a chap and girl in Rome who had bought two Lambrettas and were taking them back to America. Then we met a number of Australian chaps and girls and Danish, Dutch, Swedish, Swiss, Germans, Indians and many others.

The whole tour has been a real education to us and we have learned more geography now than we ever learned at school. The best part of our tour, of course, was Picinisco: we could talk for hours about there alone, of the two days we spent up at the Baracone, the Fontatuna and the Castellione. Every night at (spoglia la randinia) under the lovely night skies. These nights really amazed us; we have never seen so many stars and the moon so big. They couldn’t have done more for us, especially Ida, Elizetta and Iola. This has been a “HOLIDAY OF A LIFETIME”.

Sunday 30 July

Today we started off on our two-month tour of France and Italy with Picinisco and Rome as our main objective. When we were ready to start, the tandem could hardly be lifted off the ground owing to the weight of the pannier bags (approx. 60lbs). We got off to a very good start though, and I think the tandem will bear up alright. Dino took the front all day today as he is a couple of stones heavier than I am, and so the tandem was more evenly balanced. We have had a grand run through Haddington, Dunbar and Berwick, but unfortunately it has rained non-stop all day, so of course that meant rain capes all the time.

We arrived here in Fenwick at about 5.45 covering a distance of 77 miles in seven hours including two stops for meals etc. (Tomorrow we hope to reach York). The hostel here is very nice, although a bit on the small side, it is really homely and comfortable. When we arrived we made ourselves a smashing dinner of two huge chops each (which Mum had prepared for us) tomatoes and beans, and we could hardly move afterwards. The hostel is full, so we will have to bed down on the floor. Still pouring outside.

Monday 31 July

Got off to a great start this morning leaving Fenwick at 9.45. The weather has greatly improved and the sun has been shining all day, even the wind has died down a little. We stopped for lunch at Morpeth then carried on through Newcastle and Darlington, we found that stretch of road a bit hard going, but the last part of our journey from Darlington to Thirsk (where we are stopping tonight) was fine. The roads were perfect and we travelled in top gear all the time.

We are staying tonight in a rather quaint but not very clean cottage. The owner is a very interesting person. He is a wood carver to trade, and some of his work, which he showed us, was very good. Our mileage of 120 miles today, is not bad considering the weight we are carrying.

Tuesday 1 August

We were off to another fine start this morning and the weather is still good. Had lunch at Selby then pushed on to Doncaster. Had trouble with the tandem there, one spoke was broken on the back wheel and the cone on the spindle was slightly worn, all this through excessive load. To top it all, it rained while we were fixing it.

From Doncaster to E. Retford where we had a really lovely meal served by a smashing waitress, which naturally bucked us up again. We had a perfect run from there to Lincoln where we are stopping tonight. Lincoln hostel is very nice, and we were able to get a good wash and shave etc.

Wednesday 2 August

Lincoln at 9.30am heading south to Bourne, but were only a few miles out when we had more trouble with the tandem. This time the chain broke and we lost another spoke. We fixed the chain then decided we must reduce the load and send home some of the stuff which wasn’t really essential. So there and then we made up a parcel (although it started raining again) and posted it at the next village.

The rest of the journey to London was uneventful although it was rather late when we reached there. We had quite a job finding the Youth Hostel in London and when we at last found it, it was too late to do any cooking, so we went out and found a smashing “Fish & Chip” shop and had a good feed. Telephoned Mum and Dad tonight to let them know that we are alright.

Thursday 3 August

We left London hostel early, but it was very slow going until we were well clear of London traffic. Bought some spare spokes in Greenwich and had a good lunch in a transport café. It rained quite a lot today and it was rather heavy going. Reached Dover at about 8pm and found that the hostel was full. We were sent to Dover Youth Club, (a temporary annex to the hostel) and were made very welcome.

There is a really cosmopolitan group of hostellers here tonight, there are two students (brothers) in their twenties from Germany. A Dutch girl of about twenty two years old, who is a P.T. instructor on holiday in England. She was typically Dutch, blonde, heavy-set with frank open features. There was a young lad from Denmark who almost gave us a lecture on the political state of his country and his own view that King Leopold should not return to the throne of Denmark.

In all we had a most interesting night exchanging views and discussing hostelling in respective countries. Considering none of them could speak much English, we got on surprisingly well together. We also met two very nice girls from London who were very friendly. Hope the weather will improve tomorrow.

Friday 4 August

Left hostel at 10am and went straight to the East Docks to board the Townsend Ferry to Calais. We were accompanied by the Belgian who was also going to France. Going through the customs was no bother at all. They only examined our passports and marked our bags. The Ferry wasn’t very crowded so we had a very nice crossing. The view from the Ferry of the “White Cliffs of Dover” was marvellous.

On landing at Calais the procedure was even simpler and we almost walked straight from the Ferry to the road outside the Docks. Our first meal in France was at a small café just outside St Omer. It was very funny making ourselves understood but the lady in the café was very kind and so we finally had a grand meal of large beefsteaks, French beans (big helping), roly-poly French bread and butter and beer (all this cost us about five shillings each).

From St Omer we passed through Lillers, Béthune, Lens and finally Vimy. One thing in common with all these places was the Pave roads which slowed us down almost to a walking pace with it being so bumpy. The hostel at Vimy is quite primitive and very lonely. Our first impression of French Hostels is very poor, we only hope that they are not all like this one. The warden (La Pere) was very friendly though. Weather has turned hot and sunny.

Saturday 5 August

Rather a late start today 11.30am as we had to fetch water from a nearby well for La Pere. Our first stop for a meal was just outside Péronne at a transport café. This was another grand French meal and between us we finished a litre bottle of Ma Grappa Vino and we could hardly move when we had finished eating. What impresses us, is the large portions of each course which they serve.

On through Ham La Fere and to Laon where we are stopping tonight. Laon is a very beautiful town and is situated at the top of a very large and steep hill in fairly flat countryside. The hostel here is considerably better than Vimy. It was a former Abbey and is very large and rambling. There are three German lads, two French and a young Dutch couple here. As the Dutch girl was the only woman in the hostel, she slept with her boyfriend in our dormitory which just shows how broad-minded the continentals are.

Sunday 6 August

Today has been a very interesting day. To start with we visited Laon Cathedral. It is of Gothic structure and design and is very large and beautiful, we took some snaps of it. From Laon we had a nice short run to Reims where we visited the champagne “Pommery”. Reims, we found, is known as the champagne capital of Europe. The Pommery is so well kept and beautifully designed that you would think it was some palatial home instead of a factory. The town is really lovely with very wide and clean streets and there are lots of nice gardens.

We stopped just a little way past Reims at a place called Verzy. We had difficulty getting there as the village is on the very top of a large hill and the roads are really steep. But the hostel is the friendliest we have yet been to. The warden is an ex-gendarme and was falling over himself to help us and welcome us.

Had a good laugh when we asked for milk. The warden asked us to wait a moment then he went outside, caught his goat, brought it to the doorway and milked it there and then for us. Staying at the hostel were another couple (man and wife) and they were really nice. The man spoke such perfect English that it was not until later that we discovered he was Dutch. There is a shortage of blankets and we had to do with only one each. Still finding the language a problem. Tomorrow’s destination is St Dizier.

Monday 7 August

We left Verzy early this morning and had a lovely run through acres of vineyards, reaching Chalons at 11am, then on to Vitry-le-Francois where we had lunch at an hotel (cost 835 francs, the dearest yet). We pushed on to St Dizier and arrived at 3.30pm, much earlier than we expected so we decided to carry on to Chaumont.

The roads were good and we had a tail wind so although there was a lot of uphill, we made it in very good time, reaching Chaumont at 8.30. The hostel here is not on the official list but is very good and comfortable, we had good facilities for washing etc., which most hostels here seem to lack. We are quite pleased with our mileage today (180km).

Tuesday 8 August

Weather is still very warm and we are making good headway. We left the hostel at Chaumont this morning at 9am making for Dijon tonight. The countryside is much more interesting now and we are passing through vineyards and orchards galore. The road has been taking us by the banks of the Marne, but we are still climbing into the mountainous regions. Had lunch just outside Langres, the food is still great. Today we had a huge slice of melon to start with, then tomato salad with onions, a lovely pork chop, fromage and plenty of French bread and one large bottle of red wine between us. We are going to miss this cooking when we get back to Britain.

This afternoon we discovered two broken spokes on the back wheel. Luckily we still have some spare ones. We have come to the conclusion that it is Dino’s weight on the back that is causing all the trouble so I’m taking the back from now on. We met two lads from Ireland today who were doing the same tour to Rome as ourselves. This is a great coincidence as they are not only doing the same trip but they have a new “SunWasp” tandem identical with our own. They are going over the Alps and returning along the Riviera, and of course we are doing it vice versa. Arrived at Dijon hostel about 8pm and had a good tuck in then off to bed. The hostels seem to improve the farther south we go, this one is very good.

Wednesday 9 August

Left Dijon early. Had a good run through Beaune to Chagny where we had lunch. It is getting hotter still, so we just kept an easy pace through the afternoon to Challon [sic] where we bought some provisions, Then on through Tournus to Macon and finally Creches-sur-Saône, The roads are quite good now although the towns are still mostly cobbled.

At Creches we found that the hostel was a converted farmhouse but it was rather nice. Shortly after we arrived, two girls from Leeds who were living as guests of the warden, came to greet us and we had some good fun. Then later two young American girls came along so we had a very interesting time swapping experiences etc.

Thursday 10 August

Intend having an easy day today so after taking some snaps and saying goodbye to the girls, we had a lovely run to Villefranche where we lunched. There are still very many vineyards on the way. In the afternoon we reached Lyon which is a very lovely city and we spent a few hours there.

We are at last on the Rhône. All along the river in Lyon there were sections netted off for swimming, and it looked great. The town seems to be laid in a natural basin and we had wonderful views from both ends of it. Reached Vienne hostel at about 8pm. The hostel is in a back street in a square but it is quite roomy and nice. We met another Scottish lad from Glasgow and a lad from London.

Friday 11 August

Weather has changed a little, it rained all night and it was a little cooler this morning. We got off early and cycled 50km towards Valence and had lunch at a roadside café. The food is so good and plentiful that we just have to take a rest each day after eating.

We reached Valence at about 4pm and cashed a cheque for £5. Valence is another lovely town and there was so much to admire in the way of fine buildings and churches. The scenery has changed again and we are now travelling by the banks of the Rhône, and the hills on each side of us are very lovely. We are finding the cycling here is very easy as we have a strong tail wind which we think will be with us until we reach Marseille (we hope!). Arrived at Mirmande early (6pm) and had a wonderful impression of the village. It is about 5km off the main road, and the way was lined with orchards with peaches, pears, tomatoes, grapes and melons.

About 3km from Mirmande we had our first view of the place. It was so impressive that we had to stop and take photos right away. The village is neatly grouped on the side of a steep mountain and looks more like a lost city because of the white old Spanish type buildings. In fact the upper part of the village is deserted because of old religious beliefs. It is very interesting. The very narrow streets are so steep that we had quite a job getting up them. The hostel itself is like a hacienda with funny little stone balconies and wide steps all in the courtyard. The hostel is as good as any English one for cleanliness and we had a smashing meal cooked in the real French style by the warden. We ate in the courtyard. There were three English cyclists at the hostel who were touring the south of France.

Saturday 12 August

Regretfully left Mirmande and started on towards Avignon. The wind has become a gale and very fortunately it is still behind us. So we were able to cycle 71km to Orange before lunch. Orange is a very old town with ancient Roman Ruins and we took some photos of them. Before Orange we passed through Montélimar, the town where all the nougat is made. We were really surprised there. Every other shop was a sweet shop and they sold nothing but nougat in every conceivable shape and form. From nougat dolls to huge maps made of nougat. We bought two bags of nougat cubes, and they were delicious. Had lunch in Orange and went on towards Avignon. About 5km from Avignon we stopped at a natural swimming pool and had a smashing swim.

At Avignon, after leaving the tandem at the hostel, we had a walk around the town. It is a marvellous old town. An old Roman parapeted wall completely surrounds the town which is quite large and the only way that you can enter is by the four main archways. You can get in by smaller ones but you would get lost in the back streets. The Port D’Avignon and the Palace des Papes are very nice. At night they were floodlit so we took some exposures. The hostel was crowded, mostly with English hitchhikers. We slept in a big tent.

Sunday 13 August

Left Avignon about 9.30am. Weather is still tops. Had lunch at Senas. In the afternoon we had trouble with the back tyre, so we delayed for a few hours. Three Belgian lads, whom we had met at the last two hostels, caught up on us so we joined up and cycled on to Marseilles.

The hostel wasn’t up to much but we are managing OK. Took a walk into town and visited the local fair and watched the dancing for a while. The dancing was held in the market square and was very good, especially the Rhumbas and Sambas.

Monday 14 August

Left Marseilles in the company of the Belgians (Gerrard, Sherman and Etienne), they are very nice fellows and Gerrard speaks very good English. Marseilles was not nice at all, it was dirty, crowded and the streets were all cobbled. We were very glad to be out of this town. The sun was scorching today and the coast road was very steep and hilly, but the views were marvellous.

We are now right on the Riviera and we think that it’s just great. Met an English lad who asked to team up with us, so now we were six. Stopped at Hyeres tonight. We have not travelled much distance today as it was a case of one waiting for another etc., so we will be glad to be on our own again.

Tuesday 15 August

Had a very late start as we went swimming in the morning and did a few repairs to the tandem. Said goodbye to the Belgians and carried on with the London lad (Bob Loude) to Croix where we had lunch. The food here on the Riviera is much dearer and you get less of it, as the place is crowded with tourists. Got up a good pace this afternoon and reached Cannes about 8.30pm. The road to Cannes from St Raphael had the most marvellous views we have ever seen. The road twisted and turned on the face of the red rock hills which swept clear into the sea. There were many gulfs and bays which were far too lovely to describe.

At Cannes we found that the hostel was on the Isle de St Margharite and as the last boat had left, we were at a loss for a place to sleep. We first tried the station but had no luck so we went to the beach. We ate and then watched the evening life of Cannes until there were less people about, then onto the beach and slept on deck chairs which had been left. Cannes is a very lovely city and some of its buildings are really magnificent, so apart from having to sleep on the beach we have enjoyed our visit to the city.

Wednesday 16 August

Left the cold beach at Cannes at about 7am and had a good run into Nice. There we introduced Bob to the hostel and left him with the warden. We got on as far as Monaco, then found that we had broken another three spokes, making 10 in all. The four speed hub gear cluster also sheared off the wheel, so we left the tandem at a garage to have it repaired.

Spent the afternoon looking around Monaco which is a completely independent state of its own, and is very interesting. It has a grand museum, its own parliament houses and police force. We went swimming at the beach for a while, then collected our tandem and adjourned to the hostel at Monaco. The hostel is actually a camp and was very crowded.

Thursday 17 August

Got away early from Monaco and reached the Italian frontier at about 9am (Grimaldi), wasted about an hour at the customs but had no trouble at all with them. From there we made good headway reaching Diano Marina for lunchtime.

Our first impressions of Italy were very poor. After the beautiful scenery of the French Riviera, we found the Italian coastline very dirty and squalid. Certainly the weather didn’t help much as it was very windy and the sea was rough. Our first meal in Italy consisted of spaghetti and fish, cheese and fruit. It was good but it cost us 1900 lire (22 shillings). Made very good going the rest of the afternoon but uninteresting. Stopped the night at a small boarding house in Varazze as there is no hostel near here.

Friday 18 August

Got away from Varazze at 6.30am after a good night’s sleep but found that the road to Genoa was terrible, if anything it was worse than the north of France for cobbles and bad surfaces. It took us over an hour to get through Genoa itself. From Genoa to Rapallo was every bit as bad, but the town of Rapallo we found to be very nice. The first clean town we have seen yet.

We cycled on again to Chiavari. The roads are getting very hilly now but the coastline is getting very nice again, and we are enjoying it much more. Stopping tonight at the “youth hostel” at Cavi di Lavagna. This first Italian hostel is proving to be very nice. It is a part of a very big house which the owner is allowing the hostel association to use. There are two Indian students and an English couple as well as two English girls here, so we are really quite at home.

Saturday 19 August

Another good early start, leaving Cavi di Lavagna at about 8am. Had a long steep climb up into the mountains and over the Bracco Pass. We climbed for about 3 hours. Had a good meal at a small village inn, then had a good run into La Spezia. Although the countryside is getting much more mountainous it is much more enjoyable. La Spezia isn’t up to very much, it is quite dirty and the streets are narrow and cobbled. The centre of the city is nice and has some lovely buildings and hotels.

Reached Lerici hostel a little later and found it to be in the top part of Lerici Castle. We were quite impressed with it, and there was a very good crowd of French, Italian and a lot of English as well as Australians. The warden was the quaintest old lady you could ever meet. Her own room was very curious. She kept pigeons, cats and the funniest little monkey. We had great fun with it.

Sunday 20 August

Left Lerici after taking a snapshot of the castle. Had a smashing run this morning along the coast, passing through Marina di Cassara, Massa, Marmi, Viareggio then inland to Pisa. Had lunch before entering Pisa. The food here is not a patch on the French food which we are missing very much, today we had spaghetti and steak.

Pisa is very interesting and we took some snapshots of the tower, and also took a trip up it. It is amazing the angle that it leans at. Stopping tonight at a small hotel in Cecina after passing through Livorno.

Monday 21 August

Had a very good night in Cecina, only costing 700 lire and we set off early. We took the coast road towards Grosseto and it was really lovely. The sun is getting very hot indeed, and we have to rest a little in the afternoons.

In Grosseto we spent about an hour in the Piazza eating huge slices of melon costing the equivalent of 3d each. Arrived in Albinia about 8.30pm and found the hostel to be really nice. When we arrived it was dark and we thought it was a lovely farmhouse in the country, but found to our great surprise that we were practically on a lovely beach by the sea. We are wishing we could stay here a few days, it is so nice.

Tuesday 22 August

Reluctantly left Albinia and made our way towards Rome. We are now getting very near to our destination, and quite excited about it. In the morning we passed through some very lovely villages, stopping in Tarquinia for lunch. We are eating more spaghetti now than we have ever eaten. From Tarquinia to Civitavécchia where we had another feast of melons. We have noticed that in all these sea resorts, the girls all wear one-piece bathing suits so it seems that this rule is observed. A straight but hilly run on to Rome which we reached about 8.30pm. No difficulty in finding the hostel and found it to be very nice with a very friendly young girl as warden (must return here).

Wednesday 23 August

Left Rome about 2pm lunch. We didn’t see a great deal of it but shall return for a few days later. It is scorching hot today and we have to wear our shirts to stop from burning. Passed through two very quaint villages, S Cesareo and Valmontone. The latter has very many ruins, relics of the last war.

The countryside is getting much more like Mum and Dad described it to be. We can see the vines spread over trees, donkeys carrying two huge baskets and the women all carrying their wares on their heads. We can just imagine Mum and Dad here doing the same. Stopping tonight in Frosinone. Should be in Picinisco tomorrow.

Thursday 24 August

Slept last night in a small boarding house where we were made very much at home by the proprietors. Set off quite early while it was still cool. Reached Roccasecca at about 11am and waited for lunch. The road heading towards Picinisco is very rough and dusty, so it is rather slow going. Had three punctures on this road, breaking our good record. We arrived at Zio Diamante’s house about 6pm. We were very excited and eager to meet all our relatives.

It so happened that Zia Carolina from Paris (who had been visiting) was leaving the next morning so practically all our relatives were at the house to say goodbye. We were very pleased that we met them all together. Zio Diamante made us all very welcome and we are sure that we will have a great time. Luigi Gallgarro (a local lad) brought his accordion over so we had a grand reunion. Zia Carolina is very nice, just like Mum. Also Zio Diamante’s daughters, Ida, the eldest, Eliza (Elizetta) and Iola.

Friday 25 August

Got up early this morning and had a lovely breakfast. The country is lovely and everything is just as Mum described it. Zio Diamante took us round to see Uncle Franc’s house which is very lovely. There we met Zio Philippo and his wife, then we visited Mum’s old house where she was born. After lunch Zio Bernardo (Dad’s brother) came down to see us and we went with him to his own house and to see his daughter’s house and her family.

At night we had a great time, the girls brought us to “Spoglia la Randinia” at one of the farms. While they stripped (spoghiare) the com, the girls sang the stornello in very high voices and in perfect harmony. Afterwards the piazza was cleared and Luigi came out with his accordion and we had a great dance until the wee hours of the morning. Our impressions today were memorable. It was good to come into country that you know to be your real homeland, especially when it is so lovely as Picinisco. We are sure that we will enjoy every moment of our stay here.

Monday 11 September

These last two weeks in Picinisco have been the most marvellous in our lives and it almost broke our hearts to leave this morning. They have been so full that we just haven’t had time to look at the diary. Almost every night we have been to spoglia la randinia and each night has been better than the previous one. The girls have been wonderful sports and full of fun. We are sure that they were just as sorry to see us go as we were to leave.

On Sunday mornings we went up to Picinisco for Mass (a carry on) and we had lunch with Mrs Cervi one day. On Mondays we went to Atina for the weekly market. It amazed us how Ida knew almost everyone and how she managed to buy things at nearly half price. Then for two marvellous days, we went up into the mountains to the Baracone near La Meta, with Zio Meduce (Generva’s husband), Pierino, Luigi Ranaldi with his uncle, the girls and ourselves. We left at 3.30 in the morning and arrived at 6.30am.

The Baracone is a very strong stone building and there are 50 workers staying there. It was amazing that so high up in the mountains there could be a valley so well cultivated. We just played around during the day, and at night danced in the Baracone. When we returned the next day we had a smashing walk down, Ida and I were well in front all the time. Luigi, Dino and the others came behind with the accordion. Then we stopped at the Fontatuna to have a dance with the locals. It was a great laugh to watch them dance the “Ballarella”, (all dressed in ciocia, etc), we took a couple of snaps while they danced.

Everything was so great, that we just can’t describe it all. This morning it was heart-breaking saying goodbye to them all. Zio Philippo gave us a bottle of Strega, Zio Bernardo and Ida gave us a hen from each of them. We had quite a nice ride through Sora and Frosinone, stopping to eat at Valmontone, then on to Rome, but we were rather depressed all the way. Reached the hostel at 8.30pm.

Tuesday 12 September

Today we spent our time visiting St Peters and walking around Rome. We bought a lot of trinkets to take home and some hunting knives for ourselves. It was very interesting but we would need at least a fortnight to see everything so we just made for the main points of interest.

Wednesday 13 September

Left Rome this morning heading towards Florence. The weather is very hot again. Had lunch at small village then came through some very interesting countryside at Sutri. It was very rocky and all along the way there were caves of all shapes and sizes carved out of the rocks. People actually lived in some of them, and others were used as stores, etc. The small villages were all built on the face of the rock and looked more like old fortresses. We stopped the night at a small hotel in a village just past Sutri.

Sunday 17 September

Today we had a very easy day, cycling only from Beaune to Dijon. Stopped at St Georges for a really good lunch. We are really pleased to have French cooking again and we can’t say enough on how good it is. At Dijon hostel tonight we had a great time. The girl warden recognised us at once and so we were at home immediately. After eating we had a grand sing-song, dance and carry on till about 10.30pm then off to bed.

Monday 18 September

Left Dijon at 10am after getting our Italian money changed for French at the bank. The weather has turned really cold now and we can no longer ride stripped to the waist (worse luck). We prefer the scorching heat to this cold any time.

We are now heading towards Fontainebleau and Paris. Stopped another great lunch at Sombernon, a sleepy little village near Vitteaux. We are stopping tonight at Les Laumes. The hostel here is quite good and we had a place to wash ourselves thoroughly. The warden didn’t even stay at the hostel.

Tuesday 19 September

Les Laumes this morning early. The weather is really bad now. This has been the most unlucky day for us since we started. After quite a good start everything went wrong. About 10am at Montbard we were travelling very fast downhill when our front tyre burst and we went flying off the tandem. I was thrown completely off the tandem, but Dino (being at the front) held on trying to control the tandem,’ and his left knee was dragged along the road. Dino had a nasty cut on his knee and I hurt my shoulder and side. We walked two kilometres to Montbard, and got fitted up with a new tyre and inner tube costing 500 francs. From Montbard we made good progress in spite of the pouring rain.

By 7pm we had reached Sens, covering 140km. The 10km after, from Sens to the hostel at Joigny were the most miserable we have ever spent. It was now pitch dark, pouring rain, we were on an old country track and we had no idea how to find the hostel. To top it all we were starving. The track wound its way through thick woods and then through small groups of farm houses where we kept knocking people up to ask directions to the A.J (Auberge de Jeunesse). It took us two hours to cover these 10km and we were soaked, sick and miserable as hell when we eventually found the hostel. We thanked the Lord that there was at least a fire going to warm us up a bit. The warden was very kind and we were made quite comfortable. It’s a good job that there are few days like this, what with our accident, the rain and an awkwardly situated hostel, we just about had the whole works.

Wednesday 20 September

A nice short day today to Fontainebleau. It is very windy as well as rainy but nevertheless we made good timing and reached Fontainebleau at about 3.30pm. The hostel here is very good and well organised. We washed up and dressed our wounds and I washed some clothes. The hostel was full of English tourists. We talked to one lad who told us that the two Irish lads on the tandem, whom we had met weeks before, were here in Fontainebleau last night. We were very sorry to have missed them. Seemingly they have had very bad luck, running into bad weather and having two blow-outs. The two Geordies from Dijon were also here last night.

Thursday 21 September

Still very windy, but only 60km to travel to Paris. Stopped at Corbeil for lunch (which was good) and reached Paris early. Found a little difficulty in finding Zia Carolina’s address but eventually found it. Zia Carolina was very glad to see us. Silvio is very nice and we got on great with him. Then we met Florina, the daughter. She is very nice, and boy! Can she dress? She is really smart.

We are learning a lot of our family history on this tour. Zia Carolina has had quite an unhappy life. Her husband left her years ago to live with another woman. Then she found a really good man (he was father to Silvio), but who died after three years with Zia Carolina. Since then Zia Carolina has brought up three children and worked in a factory all on her own. Florina is married and has a small girl, but her husband has her so she still lives with Zia Carolina. Zia Carolina told us all this when we settled down to a cosy conversation. It is nice here in Paris and from Zia’s window we got a marvellous view of the Seine, the Eiffel Tower and all Paris.

Sunday 24 September

These three days here in Paris have been great. Zia Carolina has been feeding us till we almost burst and we have just been taking it easy. On Friday we went to the Rex Cinema. We’ve never seen a cinema that compares with it. It is built up inside to look as though you were in the open, with a large sky full of stars and the sides all quaint houses and towers. On Saturday we went with Armand, Siivio, Florina and Roland to Via Pigalle which is another Piccadilly. We visited the Eiffel Tower in the afternoon with Silvio and we had marvellous views of Paris from it.

Monday 25 September

Left Paris about 9.30am after saying goodbye to everyone. The weather is really lousy now and it isn’t so much pleasure cycling. We made Beauvais our stop for tonight and found the hostel surprisingly good and very clean. We had a good feed of pigeons and eggs. Zia Carolina gave us the pigeons and she made a lovely job of filling and roasting them. There was only one other person at the hostel, an English student artist who was a bit of a spiv type. He couldn’t even take the tyre off his wheel to fix a puncture, so naturally, Dino was conned into fixing his puncture for him.

Tuesday 26 September

Were dry when we started off this morning but soon had to don our capes again. Stopped at Airaines about 12 noon for lunch and had a really good feed getting about eight courses and all of them good, we could hardly move afterwards.

A strong wind has risen now, so it has become more unpleasant than ever, and Dino’s knee is beginning to bother him again. The wound is still wet and is not getting much chance to heal. Intended stopping at Montrail tonight but sighted an A.J. about 36km before it, so as it was pouring rain we decided to stop. We don’t even know the name of this place but aren’t much caring.

Wednesday 27 September

This place we stopped in last night was just a tumble down shack which at one time was a nice little village hall. The rain was coming in and it was swarming with mice, but surprisingly enough we had a very good sleep and were well rested. The village and hostel was called Vell. Stopped at Sainer for lunch (18km from Montrail) and then on to Boulogne.

Just outside Boulogne we broke the gear change cable but we had it fixed in Boulogne. We also decided to stop at the A.J. here and make for Calais tomorrow. The weather was a little better today and it didn’t rain, hope it keeps up. It is still very cold.

Thursday 28 September

This hostel at Boulogne is very nice and there was a good cheery crowd. Met an Australian chap who was doing a tour of the continent for 10 months (lucky beggar). Had a very good run to Calais. The road was all ups and downs but the wind was behind us. Got on the Townsend Ferry at 2.30pm. The crossing was not too bad, a bit rough but dead on time.

Got through customs with no bother at all. From Dover we cycled on to Canterbury where we found the Y.H. after a bit of searching. The hostel is the best we’ve been to for a long time (since Fontainebleau). Had a grand sing-song with three Aussies (girls), one French, Danish, Dutch and two Welsh.

Friday 29 September

Left Canterbury feeling very fresh and started heading for London. There is a fine drizzle of rain on our faces and it is very misty. Stopped for lunch at Chatham at a Transport Café and had a great meal costing only 2 shillings and sixpence.

At Dartford we stopped to visit Jennings Ltd., but they hadn’t anything to suit us in a 140 brass accordion. Spent about an hour there playing an Excelsior £340.00 model. It was marvellous and had a lovely smooth action. Reached Highgate Hostel at about 8pm and found the warden to be a real cheery chap with a great sense of humour. Stopped to eat at a fish & chip shop just beside the hostel.

Saturday 30 September

Left Highgate Hostel very early and although the weather is still very bad we were glad of a very strong wind at our back to help us along. We just want to travel as far as we possibly can today. Well we have arrived in York after a really successful day’s cycling, covering almost 200 miles. It has rained all day but our capes must have acted as sails for we just flew along in record time. The hostel is full so we are staying at a bed & breakfast place tonight.

Sunday 1 October

York at about 9.30am and we made very good going. We are now on very familiar ground, which is not so interesting now. It started off fine this morning but didn’t last very long and soon the rain was lashing down and continued for most of the day. Had lunch at Northallerton. All in all we had a dull but successful day’s cycling, stopping at Coldingham Y.H. tonight. Tomorrow we shall be home.

Monday 2 October

In really great form today, covered the 60 miles from Coldingham to Edinburgh in just two and a half hours (must be the thought of getting home).

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Images from the journey

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About the photos: One story is linked to the above photograph: One day as Dino and Oresto were cycling along, they spotted a field with grapes. They decided to have a rest, and eat a couple of grapes. No sooner had they sat on the wall, a man came along bearing a gun, shouting at them. It was his vineyard, and he was not happy with two thieves eating his grapes. Somehow, Dino and Oresto managed to sweet talk the man, and instead of being threatening, he took a picture for them. Hence the slightly sheepish/smug looks above!

There are many more stories from this journey of a lifetime, and a lot of them are included in the diary that Oresto kept.